Quito time

This is the English version- NOT translation- of our take on the first part of our Ecuadorian adventure: Quito and surroundings. Next post about Puerto Cayo and workaway experience soon, most likely in Romanian- brush up yours or prepare Google translate. : )

Here we were, after over 24 hours of flights and layovers, outside of Quito, the capital city of Ecuador. Most signs of fatigue have faded in the face of the imposing Andes and the touch of warmth and wind on our A.C.-abused skins. We had rented a shuttle to the hostel and there she was, a beautiful Ecuadorian lady with a sign that had our common Fehér-Gavra name (ok, maybe it said “Balazs Feher”, but for the sake of equal representation, we’ll adjust some details) ready to offer us a ride to out dwelling in what seemed to be a personal car.

After safely arriving to our very neat yet bohemian looking hostel (“La Rosario”, would recommend it for basic comfort, safety and extremely helpful manager/ receptionist/ all-doer) we squeezed in a swift refreshing session and headed out toward the institution where we needed to register our visas. The three hour waiting was no biggie as we had been warned about it- in fact, initially we were pretty pleasantly surprised by the apparently well functioning queuing system. The more tensioned moments came later on when we were nonchalantly informed that they would like to hold on to our passports for 48 hours (i.e. from Friday to WEDNESDAY, since the following Monday would be Ecuador’s National Day). That was not what we had read online about registering visas and most definitely it was not going to pass without ruining our plans of being in Manta on Monday.

What happened next is what I call a “non-invasive (yet) forced language immersion” episode that can squeeze every single bit of implicit foreign language you’ve got hidden in the most obscure parts of your brain: no, it was not an option to prolong our stay in Quito by 3 extra nights, nooo, we also didn’t feel comfortable leaving the visa registration for later in a different city and (hell) no, we would not rely on a stranger’s goodwill to have us send the passports on the beach (while travelling half the country without any legal means of identification). The combination between puppy eyes and “I’m not gonna let you have your way” look must have aided the schizophrenic half sentences that were coming out of my mouth. The outcome was, after literally another hour and a half of distress, victorious: we’d gotten our beloved travel documents back and another two pieces of documents. It must have taken them literally around 15-20 minutes to verify and issue the documents, but they made the experience more epic for us by unnecessarily prolonging the suspense.

All in all, we managed. The Quito adventure was ready to emerge.

Delicious new meals, fruits and all-natural jugos enjoyed where the locals have them (not your most exquisite place, but definitely 100% authentic) or from street vendors kept us going up and down the “hills” (a.k.a mountains) of Quito for the two days and a half and have also aided our very hasty recovery. We even managed to adapt to the time zone and skip jet-lag symptoms (for most part in any case) in no-time.

Thus we managed to do and see a tone in Quito: every important tourist attraction in the old downtown- La Basilica, Plaza Santo Domingo, Teatro Nacional Sucre, La Merced Church etc. , hung out at the Cumanda National Park and surroundings- where we were lucky enough to catch the days of celebrating unity and tolerance through culture and so we saw many artsy pieces of all sorts, pictures, films, and even a very spontaneous metal show (!)- walk the narrow and charming streets Calle de la Ronda where we also had local beer and a taste of the traditional Ecuadorian drink, Canelazo, a delicious blend of mulled liqueur with a fruit juice.

We also managed to get reasonably close to the Virgin Mary (Lama el Panecillo) on the top of the mountain and walk in some very authentic, non-touristy neighborhoods and so catch a glimpse of the residences of a regular Quito family. Another must see that we managed to tick off the list was the Middle of the Earth- el Mitad del Mundo, ermm 240 meters away from the actual Equator, but still, the place where the measurements to prove that the Earth has an oblate spheroid shape were first made. It’s a pretty cool place with lovely facilities and nice small things to do, like hanging out with lamas, enjoying local food like Guinea pigs on stick (which we did NOT do…yet), visit a few museums, and, what I’ve personally enjoyed the most, see some of the works of Ecuador’s most preeminent contemporary painter: Oswaldo Guayasamin(see some pics below text and be amazed), remarkable by the way in which he managed to transmit human sufferance as seen on indigenous people’s faces through outstanding portraits.

 I want to mention that, while not letting our curiosity cloud our reason and precaution (i.e. put ourselves in unnecessary risky situations), there was no instance when I felt truly insecure or in any real danger. Also noteworthy would be the polite and respectful attitude of the Ecuadorian people shown offering directions, being served food or sold stuff. We had expected that in a way, having a particular affliction for Latin people, and sure enough, we can confidently say that amamos Ecuadorianos. If one tries to understand everything in its own context and tone down pre-set standards and all too rooted ways of doing things, one is able to capture the beauty of a new culture and not get pestered by differences that might not even be all that relevant at the end of the day. This attitude, the great places, scenery and people, plus, experiencing all these wonders with the love of your life, has facilitated absolutely memorable time in beautiful Quito.

Over and out for now,

Alina & Balázs.

Read more about our life on the beach…in Romanian.